How to Knit the (Double Yarn) Seed Stitch

Back to Basics :: Day Five

For today, I will be demonstrating the seed stitch, knit with two yarns at once. Knitting with two yarns at once is totally optional, I just like how the white and purple contrast each other for the little knots the stitch creates.

Tip: New to knitting with multiple yarns? When knitting with two yarns at once, hold both colors together and treat them as one string.

To start, cast on any even number of stitches (if you are knitting with two yarns, just hold them together as you cast on so they both are placed on the needle).

I casted on 16 stitches. Use any even number.

Row 1: *K, P*

Start the row by knitting one.

After knitting one, purl one. 

Row 2: *P, K*

Simply repeat these two rows for the entire length of your piece. 

After a couple rows it will start to look like this....

Tip: Put down your needles mid-row and can't remember which stitch is next? Look at the next stitch on your left needle, if there is a bump on the look, KNIT; if there is no immediate bump, PURL (note this is opposite of usual knitting rules).

This pattern creates a great thick piece that's full of texture. I'd recommend this if you're making a washcloth or scrubby pad. 

This pattern creates lots of little "seed" bumps.

How to Knit the Slip Stitch Rib

Back to Basics :: Day Two

For day 2 of my Back to Basics series I'll be demonstrating the slip stitch rib. For this stitch, you will need to know how to purl, knit, and slip one purlwise (as if you are going to purl but then just slip the stitch).

This pattern calls for multiples of 5+2, I casted on 27 using worsted weight and size 8 needles.

Row 1: P2, *K1, S1P (slip one purlwise), K1, P2*   (repeat between asterisks until end of the row)

Row 1: Purl 2

Row 1: After purling 2 and knitting 1, slip 1 stitch as if to purl
(yarn in front)

Row 2: K2, *P3, K2*

Repeat these two rows until the end of your piece.

After a few rows, your piece will start to look like this....

Right Side

Wrong Side

This stitch pattern is great for cuffs or brims because it creates such a thick, squishy fabric. Personally, I like the "wrong side" of the pattern better than the "right side" and have used the wrong side for several different hat brims. This is a great pattern for beginners to practice slipping stitches and the alternating rows allow for easy memorization.

Need some practice in slipping? Try out this pattern! Stay tuned for tomorrow's next installment in Back to Basics.

How to Knit the Checker Board Stitch

Back to Basics Week :: Day One

I've decided to go back to the basics and share with you all some of my favorite patterns that can be used for endless pieces and projects. When I first started knitting I thought there was only knitting and purling, and the occasional stockinette. But learning how to knit and purl is just the beginning... mastering these two motions allows for manipulation into just about any design or image.

Being able to visualize an end product before it's even started is quite challenging, and my mind is definitely not built that way though I still push myself to be able to. This week I'm going to post a new stitch pattern every day; the patterns I'll post are some of my favorites and really helped develop my coordination as a knitter and visualization as a young designer. Today, I'll share with you the checker board stitch, a repeat pattern that is reversible (always love these!!) and is very easy once a rhythm is established.

To start, pick any corresponding set of needles and yarn. I used worsted weight and size 8 needles. For this pattern, cast on in multiples of 6 + 3 (9, 15, 21, etc....). I casted on 21 and used the long tail cast on method (although your favorite method will also work).

Row 1: Purl 3, *Knit 3, Purl 3*  (repeat between asterisks until the end of your row)

Row 1: Start the pattern by purling 3
(make sure yarn is in front) 

Row 1: After purling 3, start the repeat by knitting 3
(make sure yarn is in back)

Row 2: K3, *P3, K3*

Row 3: P3, *K3, P3*

Row 4: K3, *P3, K3*

Row 5: K3, *P3, K3*     <--- change up here, be sure to pay attention!!

Row 6: P3, *K3, P3*

Row 7: K3, *P3, K3*

Row 8: P3, *K3, P3*


After repeating the 8 rows a couple times, your piece will start to look like this:

Suggestions for newer knitters: This is a great pattern to practice purling and moving your yarn forward/backward when switching from purling to knitting. If you ever put down your work mid-row and can't remember what your next stitch should be, just look at the stitch ahead of you. If your next stitch has a bump in the yarn, that means you should purl; if there is no immediate bump on the loop that means you should knit (UNLESS you are at row 4 or 8 of the pattern, then do the opposite).

I hope you all enjoy this pattern, check back tomorrow for the next installment in my Back to Basics series!